Adoption & Foster Resources

by | Feb 6, 2022

For any fosters or adopters please read.

Other links that can answer many questions:

We recommend continually bringing other dogs, cats, children into your yard, home so your pup/dog remains socialized. This would be AFTER  your dog has  bonded to you/its new family, hence, please wait a minimum of 3 weeks after adoption to do that

Also, please wait until AFTER your pup/dog is FULLY immunized, which is two weeks AFTER their last round of dhhp shots. This is generally for PUPPIES, but please check with your vet’s office (all dogs/pups come with their medical folders) If you have any doubts.

We are not fans of dog parks. Humans do not often know how to properly control their dogs. Sadly dog fights have occurred. Dogs have gotten injured/killed, people get bit….. I know there are some lovely dogs parks in the NW,  but we personally are not huge fans of them.

We think one on one with other dogs in a controlled environment with proper introductions are usually the best, and bringing dogs once your dog is fully immunized into your yard will have your dog understand not to be protective of their home. Any issues, we recommend looking below AND if need be contact Patti Howard and us immediately (see below)

When playing and interacting with your puppy ALWAYS have a toy in hand! Puppies are teething and naturally want to bite and chew. Dogs also use their mouth to interact with the world! Normally, puppies would be biting each other to learn proper thresholds. Puppies will cry if their littermate bites them too hard. If your puppy bites your hand let out a quick, loud, high-pitched squeal, and then redirect to a toy. Once he/she bites the toy, reward with positive verbal feedback!

It will take time and patience. Both you and the puppy are learning, so don’t get discouraged! Offering tons of chew toys to curb boredom and using redirection should do the trick. Make sure your puppy is properly exercised, mentally stimulated (training etc) and excited to please you! I always recommend training in the morning BEFORE breakfast, and at night BEFORE dinner. This increases food drive.

While food is a great reward system, make sure you ask you puppy to do many commands for one treat. You can start rewarding every time but slowly encourage your puppy to do MORE for the treat. Verbal and physical reward is a great tool as well. This will help to avoid your dog only listening when you have food.  Additionally here are some great videos to reference on basic training.

A few tips for ensuring your dogs respect and get along with your dog:

  • Altitude! Height has a lot of meaning to animals in regards to social standing or what people sometimes call “alpha and omega” Having your cats eat somewhere up high like a countertop can really help a dog understand that the cat is a respected member of the family. This one can sometimes seems to mean but allowing the cats on the couch or beds and not the dog can serve a similar purpose.
  • Love on your cats! Dogs are smart and understand that when you pet and adore your cats, it means you love and value them! They will be less likely to chase and taunt the cat if they know you value the cats.

Tips for training your puppy AND your kids:

  • People seem to think puppies will get used to the loud noises and ear pulling. Some do, however it is important to teach your kids to be gentle with and around the puppy!
  • A kennel can also be a wonderful way for an overwhelmed dog to escape a stressful situation so teach your kids that when the dog goes into the crate, they must leave it alone. Kennels should be a safe place and not used as time out or punishment. Give treats and fun toys in the kennel and always leave the door open during the day.
  • Have your kids train the puppy! This is so important! If your kids can train the dog, this builds respect, control, and understanding on both ends. A puppy who listens to the commands of a toddler is an extremely well-trained dog in my book. Sadly people simply don’t think to do this.

Food and self-control:

 

I also ALWAYS recommend implementing “sit and wait” for feeding time.
If she’s ignoring her food perhaps she doesn’t like her food. Try switching or try adding a tablespoon of wet food to make it yummier.
Once she likes her food, have her sit. Hold a finger up to signal “wait” and slowly lower the bowl to the ground maintaining eye contact.
The second her butt lifts off the ground, lift the bowl back up and give a loud “AH!”
Do this EVERY TIME you feed. If she is snagging human food have her kenneled while you eat. 

 Training in general: utilize a clicker!. The clicker happens the SECOND your dog does what you’ve asked!  Then treat! 

This helps weed out food motivation and give the dog a consistent que that they did a good job (the sound is consistent whereas “good girl” may be said in different tones)

“Look” is a very important command: 

 

Leash training: TOOLS ARE YOU FRIEND!. Utilize a gentle leader, pinch collar, treats, clicker training etc. 

If she pulls, apply pressure (tug on lead/a quick pop) and the second she does what you want, be sure to reward with “good girl” and maybe a treat!

While treats are a great tool sometimes they can cause problems, i.e. your dog only listens to you IF she’s going to get a treat: 

Once she knows multiple commands, have her do many tricks (sit, wait, come, sit, lay down, roll over etc) then reward with treat! Increase the number of commands per one treat slowly.

Do training during walks! Once your dog is confident following commands in a quiet familiar environment, I recommend doing these commands in an unfamiliar distracting one!

Practice “sit, and wait” and even “look” for eye contact (important for leash training). You want your dog focused on you and where your body is going!

A lot of people go for a long walk and expect the dog to just get it eventually. If a dog is overly excited, it’s overly stimulated!

Walk a short distance: if she is pulling and all over the place, turn around and head home. Go inside. Try again.

Try exercising in the backyard before a walk (throw ball for an hour) to get some energy released beforehand.

SWITCH DIRECTIONS! Change pace! go fast then slow!!

This builds communication between you and your dog. 

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Training Sessions with Patti

Patti Howard is great but usually booked out in advance, she works remotely as well.

https://yourcanineresource.com/

Patti Howard has awesome reviews from everyone we know who has contacted her. Every single adopter who has any session with Patti raves about her advice. She kindly offers a 50% discount for ALL of our adopters for the first session which she does via zoom.  We can’t thank her enough. Private sessions in person are available at her regular rates.

 

Tracy
We just found out about Tracy (actually when an adopter used her as their personal reference!).  Hence, please give us feedback as we would love to know your experience!

https://www.pooch-play.com/ 

Tracy Skylstad runs pooch play. It is a doggie day care/boarding facility in N Bend, WA. Obviously, that of course is not a free service, that is what she does.

Tracy has kindly offered to give free advice/assistance on the phone/text when she can to our adopters to help make the adoption work the best it can.

Texting is generally the best way to reach Tracy. 425-888-2120.

Tracy has kindly offered this to our adopters as a free service!

Danielle Whitman
(360)927-2932
bossdogs365@yahoo.com

This person came recommended as well, but unlike Patti Howard, we personally do not have any experience with her, but someone swears by this person? We have had phenomenal success with any and all adopters who have used Patti Howard. FYI Also, Patti gives our adopters a discount. WE just want things to work fabulously!

 Another adopter recommends this. They appear to have some free offerings?
https://www.dunbaracademy.com/